Lately, I have been seeing a whole lot of sewists make their very own underwear, and it’s really inspiring me-however there’s one element that I don’t need to incorporate in my me-made underwear: elastic.
If you’ve ever made underwear earlier than, you probably know that many ending strategies for the legholes and waistline embrace elastic, both fold-over elastic, picot, or even braided elastic encased in fabric. I don’t learn about you, however none of my ready-to-put on underwear have elastic within the legs-and sometimes they don’t in the waist both. This is the type of underwear I like greatest.
So, the place does this depart me? I’m not a fan of elastic in my underwear because it feels too restrictive, but I want to make my own underwear. This is where knit bands come into play for me. I’m going to point out you the right way to swap knitted elastic band for a knit band to finish your underwear!
You’ll Need:
- Fabric
– Pattern
– Tape measure
– Ruler
– Extra paper
- Pencil
Find out how to Draft and Sew a Knit Band
Let’s do this.
Be certain your fabric meets the stretch requirements stated within the sample you’re utilizing. Should you loved this information and you wish to receive details with regards to woven elastic band – navigate to this website, i implore you to visit the web-site. I’m making the Sophie Hines Median Knickers pattern, and it requires 50%-75% stretch.
If you’re using a Seamwork sample, it features a stretch information that will help you see if the fabric you want to make use of has sufficient stretch in it. Listed here are some Seamwork patterns you need to use:
- The Geneva panties are a classic selection, especially if you want to use stretch lace.
– The Kaye shorts are excellent for biker-brief model underwear.
– The Dana underwear would work nicely with a knit band instead of elastic.
- The brand new (and free!) Flo interval underwear. You can make these without the absorbent fabric if you want to make a comfy pair of on a regular basis underwear.
Cut your pattern out and sew collectively all the essential items. Here is my constructed garment aside from the leg holes and waist.
Measure the leg opening and waistline that can assist you decide how long your knit bands must be. My leg holes turned out to be 27 1/2 inches, and my waist is 34 1/2 inches. Next, I should do some math.
Ugh, math!? I know-it’s not my favorite, but we received this!
You want some math as a result of in the event you cut the knit band the same length because the leg hole or waistline, it won’t have the stretch to imitate the elastic finish. You want to search out the right amount of detrimental ease to your knit band to remain in place and match securely-however comfortably-to your body.
I consulted with Wallis, our patternmaker-and the queen of knits-right here at Seamwork, and knitted elastic webbing elastic band she advised me to follow a simple equation when making knit bands for closures. Make the knit band jacquard elastic webbing 90% of the whole circumference of the opening.
I would like to emphasize that 90% is a suggestion and an excellent place to start out! Depending in your fabric’s recovery, you could must do some testing to get the fitting circumference. You may all the time baste your band to your underwear to examine the fit first.
So, since my leg gap is 27 1/2 inches, my equation is: 27.5 x .9 = 24.75. I lower my leg bands at 24 3/four inches.
My waist measured 34 1/2 inches, my equation is: 34.5 x .9 = 31. I cut my waistband at 31 inches.
I need my bands to be a bit wider, so I reduce them 2 inches vast, but you may make them a bit narrower or wider. Try to not go underneath 1 1/2 inches or over 2 1/2 inches. If you cut your bands too slim, they might have some extra bulk at the seam allowance. When you minimize them too large, you will have issues fitting your gusset.
Sew the 2 short ends of your knit band together. Press the seam to at least one aspect. Helpful hint: If you’re utilizing a serger, use just one needle to chop down on bulk when serging.
Press the band in half lengthwise.
With wrong sides together, baste the raw edge.
With right sides collectively, pin the knit band evenly along the leg gap. You’ll have to stretch the knit band as you go.
A trick to evenly pinning the band is to mark your band in quarters. Then, mark your leghole and waistline in quarters. Stretch to match the quarter markings and pin in place, evenly distributing the band.
Using a serger or a zigzag stitch, sew the knit band to the underwear at 3/eight inch. Stretch the knit band as you go to ease it in. You can see this in action in this video tutorial for adding a knit band on our YouTube channel.
Press the seam allowance in the direction of the underwear and topstitch with a narrow zigzag to carry the seam allowance in place.
Now repeat that very same course of in your other leg hole and waistband and marvel on the no-elastic undies you simply made! Great job!
Taylor Pruitt
UX Designer
Taylor has an eye fixed for design. As the Product Manager for Seamwork, she wants to make sure your on-line experiences are fun and fulfilling.